Where in the World Is Joe?

Following last year’s journey from New York to Los Angeles, Joe Klein is again hitting the road to find out what people are thinking outside the Beltway. This time he plans to journey from south to north, starting at the border in Laredo, Texas, and winding up in Minnesota—though, in true road trip fashion, the route could always change.

Along the way he’ll meet with politicians and community leaders, as well as readers who have invited him into their homes and businesses to talk about how they’re faring in these difficult times. And a few special guests will join Joe as he meanders through the Heartland.

Check in here often for our Google Map “Joe Tracker,” Joe’s daily dispatches, images from award-winning photographer Lynsey Addario, periodic video updates and even Joe’s latest favorite driving songs.

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Road Trip Day 19: Road Trip Interruptus

New York

My mom has been ailing for the past few weeks–she’s 91–and I’ve decided to curtail this year’s road trip so that I can attend to her and my dad, also 91. So we pack up about 4 days and 1 state (Minnesota) short of what we’d planned. (Minnesota, I’m looking at you, for next year’s trip).

Meanwhile, this week’s print column, which can be found here, features a terrific meeting I had with residents of Ellston and Sun Valley Lake, Iowa, a few days ago. As with many of the other meetings set up by you, dear readers–in this case, the instigator was a woman named Kila Christensen–the absence of civility…

Road Trip Day 16: David Brooks Edition

Des Moines, Iowa

I’ll have more to say about the past few days soon, but a brief diversion seems appropriate. David Brooks has a terrific column today, which is more wonky and detailed than what I’ve been hearing on the road, but definitely reflects the basic sentiments of the Americans I’ve been interviewing. Here is Brooks’s policy prescription:

Road Trip Day 15: The Loving American

Joplin, Missouri

There were a thousand people in the worship center at the College Heights Christian Church this morning. A guy with a modified mohawk, white tie and distressed charcoal gray shirt was leading the congregation in rocking songs of praise with the lyrics posted on giant karaoke screens to the left and right of the stage. His name was James Tealy and he had come from Nashville for the occasion. A member of the congregation named Jared Kendall stepped into the baptismal pool, on the right of the stage, and, with a shakey voice, filled with emotion, baptized his beautiful 10-year-old daughter, Sophie.

After the Tornado in Joplin: Blood, Sweat and Money

Joplin, Missouri

One of Joe’s road-trip companions, chief wrangler and fact checker Katy Steinmetz, sees a house with broken windows and a yard full of debris. In the backyard is a sign that says, “If you have it, we can use it.” In the front yard is a sign that says, “Need golf balls pls.”

Road Trip Day 13: The Lazy American

Jonesboro, Arkansas–St Louis, Missouri

“Down deep in my heart, I believe that we’ve peaked as a nation,” said Jim Phillips, the president of the Arkansas Dentists Association. He had gathered a handful of fellow dentists together at the Riverpointe Country Club, in a neighborhood of some of the biggest McMansions ever built by man. “We’re sliding as slow as we can, digging our claws in scrapping, but we’re sliding.”

Road Trip Day 12: Sanity in Arkansas

Conway, Arkansas

“You are sitting in a room with visionaries,” Mike Coats, the proprietor of Mike’s Place, told me. The visionaries looked pretty average old-fashioned American to me–a small city mayor, a small city Chamber of Commerce manager, a lawyer, a furniture store owner, a young African-American employee of Hewlett Packard. But they had done something entirely radical: they had launched a campaign to revive their city, and a big part of that campaign had been to convince the state liquor authority to allow Mike Coats to sell booze by the glass. The revival of Conway, Arkansas–using federal funds, including earmarks (!)–is the sort of story we don’t hear much anymore in this Tea-tinged anti-government environment, but it contains some important lessons.

It began in 1998, when Axiom, a major financial services company, decided to move its corporate headquarters out of town.

Road Trip Day 11: A Good Politician

Little Rock, Arkansas

First things first, I have a new print column lurking here, behind the paywall, about my frolics with the Miller County Patriots down in Texarkana a few days ago. To make a long story short, the Patriots raised some very valid points about government intrusion into their own lives–very similar to the arguments made by Dennis Ramsey, the mayor of Hope, in this space yesterday. A commercial real estate builder named Curt Green told me that he had been able to move quickly on deals in the past because his bank gave him “character loans”–that is, they knew and trusted him because of his past record of repayment and his place in the community–but Dodd-Frank had made such loans impossible. It would now take 6 weeks to shuffle through the paperwork, and he lost the deal. (I should note that “character loans” given by unscrupulous mortgage-mongers to people who didn’t deserve them was a root cause of the financial collapse in 2008.)

The Patriots became markedly less reliable, though, when I asked them…

Road Trip Day 10: A Place Called Hope

Hope, Arkansas

Well, I’ve known the guy for about 25 years and I couldn’t just let his birthplace pass me by. The house where Bill Clinton first lived is on the main road into town and it’s been restored beautifully. It isn’t exactly overrun with visitors, but it’s a nice, quiet place filled with lots of pictures of Billy Blythe as a chubby baby. Hope is a nice quiet place, too. I had a sweet tea with the Mayor, Dennis Ramsey, who told me that the local economy was stable, as was the local population–about 10,000.

What about the housing market? I asked. A lot of foreclosures? This got Ramsey’s attention, since he’s a local banker.

Road Trip Day 9: Time Warp

Arkadelphia, Arkansas

Yes, it’s really important for me to out here listening to non-Beltway people. I truly enjoy doing it and I learn a lot. But this is one week when I’d just as soon be back East, with all that’s going on.

Road Trip Day 7: My Life is a Country Music Song

Austin, Texas

And here’s the first verse:

I murdered my iphone in a margarita last night

We’d just seen Arcade Fire and I was feelin’ all right

My wife set her traveler where the cup holder had been

Michele Bachmann says I’m-a just payin’ for my sins.

The good news is the Apple store folks replaced the phone today, free of charge (you get one of those per lifetime of the phone, as it happens). The better news is there’s one more day of the Austin City Limits festival. But here’s what we saw yesterday:

Road Trip Day 6: Rain Dance at Austin City Limits Festival

Austin, Texas

It rained here yesterday, briefly but furiously–for the first time since June. I attribute it to the arrival of Swampfrau, who has mystical powers that are enhanced by the presence of fabulous bass lines. In any case, the rain came and went in the hour before we arrived at Zilker Park–and it was pleasantly cloudy when Brandi Carlile took the stage for a fine, rocking set, especially her tribute to Johnny Cash. Here’s a brief capsule of some of the other things we saw:

Road Trip Day 5: Starting Up

Austin, Texas

Chuck Gordon couldn’t find anyplace to store his stuff. He was a UCLA art major, about to spend junior year abroad in Singapore. He checked out the regular storage places in LA and it was going to cost something like $1000, which his father said was just too expensive. But his girlfriend had a garage, and she could take half his stuff; and his roommate, Mario Feghali, a psychobiology major, had some space available, too.

And then he had an idea.

Road Trip Day 6 (Prospectively): Crowd-Sourcing Austin City Limits

OK, it’s one thing for me to have you, dear readers, determine my itinerary for this road trip. It’s a bit more risky to crowd-source my choices for the first day of the Austin City Limits festival. But let’s take a shot.

Road Trip Day 4: ADHD and Social Security

Austin, Texas

I watched the Republican debate on Monday with the Webb County Republicans, down in Laredo (where there aren’t very many Republicans) and you can find my report here, if you pay your money and subscribe to TIME. There was some interesting stuff I couldn’t fit into the column, so I’ll let ‘er rip:

Road Trip Day 3: Barbecue With a Book Group

Austin, Texas

The Folktales’ Black Women’s Literary Society has been meeting and reading for 17 years. Time reader Peggy Terry invited me to join the group for some barbecue and talk at the George Washington Carver museum in East Austin last night.

Road Trip Day 2: Playlists

Austin, Texas

We hit a hellacious and inexplicable traffic jam–no construction, no apparent accidents–halfway between San Antonio and Austin yesterday, which gave Turk Pipkin and me time to listen to some music. Turk, you should know, is a Willie Nelson pal and occasional amanuensis, the author of The Tao of Willie. He is also as much of a music hound as I am.

Road Trip Day 1: Bored on the Border?

Laredo, Texas

“Are you here for the convention,” the woman with pink and bronze hair asked me at the hotel in San Antonio.

“No,” I replied, “Which convention?”

“The hairdressers’ convention.”

“Do I look like a hairdresser?” I asked.

Road Trip 2011: And So It Begins

San Antonio, Texas

Road Trip 2011 begins today. Well, we had so much fun last time, why not? And there’s still a lot to learn, and enjoy, about this country. So I’m in San Antonio, and in a few hours I’ll pick up our first traveling companion and head down to the Mexican border at Laredo. Some basic facts about this year’s trip: