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From Jackie Kennedy to Michelle Obama: 16 Stunning Inaugural Gowns

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Throughout modern U.S. history, inaugural balls have given First Ladies a high-profile chance to officially introduce themselves and their values to the American people. As one of the first formal introductions to a President and the first family in their new roles, something as simple as choosing a dress for the occasion can speak volumes.

Take, for example, Nancy Reagan’s selection of an over-the-top, glitzy ensemble that effectively foreshadowed the era of Reaganomics, or recall how Michelle Obama’s cogent choice to wear Jason Wu, a young and openly gay designer who was born in Taiwan, reflected the values of inclusivity that her husband’s administration would be known for. In this way, inaugural gowns serve as a tangible sign of our times—a fact that’s not lost on the Smithsonian, which houses many of the past dresses in their First Ladies exhibit.

On the night of Jan. 20, following the inauguration of President-elect Donald Trump, all eyes at the ball will at one point turn to the dress choice of his wife, Melania. Here’s a look back at 16 of the most memorable inaugural gowns.

Michelle Obama, Jason Wu, 2013: The sleeveless red, chiffon and velvet gown was paired with a diamond embellished ring by jewelry designer Kimberly McDonald and shoes by Jimmy Choo.
Michelle Obama, Jason Wu, 2013: The sleeveless red, chiffon and velvet gown was paired with a diamond embellished ring by jewelry designer Kimberly McDonald and shoes by Jimmy Choo.Luke Sharrett—The New York Times/Redux
President Barack Obama and first lady Michelle arriving on stage for a dance, at the Neighborhood Inaugural Ball at the Convention Center in Washington, Tuesday, January 20, 2009.
Michelle Obama, Jason Wu, 2009: This white, one-shoulder, chiffon dress "evoked new beginnings, not to mention nuptials," TIME wrote in 2009. It also thrust Wu, who was relatively unknown outside fashion's inner circle, into the national spotlight.Damon Winter—The New York Times/Redux
White House Affairs
Laura Bush, Oscar de la Renta, 2005: The dress is an ice blue and silver embroidered tulle V-neck. She also wore de la Renta for a 2001 Vogue photo shoot and at the 2004 Republican National Convention. Charles Ommanney—Getty Images
BUSH
Laura Bush, Michael Faircloth, 2001: For her husband's first inauguration, Bush wore a red, crystal-embroidered Chantilly lace gown designed by a fellow Texan.Doug Mills—AP
Hillary Clinton, Oscar de la Renta, 1997: Clinton wore this gold lace dress in 1997, but she first met the designer at the Kennedy Center in Dec. 1993, when he pointed out that she was wearing one of his dresses, which she claims she did not realize at the time. De la Renta has described his "friend" Hillary as "a symbol of where women want to go."
Hillary Clinton, Oscar de la Renta, 1997: Clinton wore this gold lace dress in 1997, but she first met the designer at the Kennedy Center in Dec. 1993, when he pointed out that she was wearing one of his dresses, which she claims she did not realize at the time. De la Renta has described his "friend" Hillary as "a symbol of where women want to go."Cynthia Johnson—Getty Images
Hillary Clinton, Sarah Phillips, 1993: This violet beaded lace gown was made by a little-known designer whose work Clinton reportedly first noticed in a Little Rock boutique.
Hillary Clinton, Sarah Phillips, 1993: This violet beaded lace gown was made by a little-known designer whose work Clinton reportedly first noticed in a Little Rock boutique.David Ake—AFP/Getty Images
Barbara Bush, Arnold Scaasi, 1989 In this royal blue gown with a velvet top and satin skirt, Bush became known as America's "most glamorous grandmother."
Barbara Bush, Arnold Scaasi, 1989: In this royal blue gown with a velvet top and satin skirt, Bush became known as America's "most glamorous grandmother." Bettmann/Corbis/Getty Images
Ronald Reagan    and    Nancy  Reagan
Nancy Reagan, James Galanos, 1985: The designer and his staff reportedly spent over 300 hours embroidering the beads onto this gown, and some news outlets estimated that her entire outfit cost $46,000.Ira Schwarz—AP
Portrait of President and Mrs. Reagan
Nancy Reagan, James Galanos, 1981: The white beaded, one-shoulder dress with lace over silk satin was criticized as too lavish as the country was in the midst of a recession.Michael Evans—picture-alliance/dpa/AP
Jimmy Carter, Rosalynn Carter
Rosalynn Carter, Mary Matise for Jimmae, 1977: She sported a coat with gold embroidery over a sleeveless, blue chiffon gown with gold trim -- the same dress she wore when her husband became governor in 1971.Peter Bregg—AP
Pat Nixon, Karen Stark for Harvey Berin, 1969 This gold and silver embroidered gown was encrusted with Austrian crystals.
Pat Nixon, Karen Stark for Harvey Berin, 1969: This gold and silver embroidered gown was encrusted with Austrian crystals.Bettmann/Corbis/Getty Images
Lady Bird Johnson
Lady Bird Johnson, John Moore, 1963: Here's how she summed up her philosophy on fashion, according to a 1964 TIME profile: "I like clothes. I like them pretty. But I want them to serve me, not for me to serve them." Schulmann-Sachs—picture-alliance/dpa/AP
Jackie Kennedy, Jackie Kennedy and Ethan Frankau, 1961 The design of this off-white, sleeveless, silk chiffon gown with accompanying cape was based on sketches submitted by the First Lady.
Jackie Kennedy, Jackie Kennedy and Ethan Frankau, 1961: The design of this off-white, sleeveless, silk chiffon gown with accompanying cape was based on sketches submitted by the First Lady. This content is subject to copyright.
Mamie Eisenhower, Nettie Rosenstein, 1953 This sparkling pink gown boasts 2,000 embroidered rhinestones, and her name was printed on the left instep of her Delman shoes, according to the Smithsonian.
Mamie Eisenhower, Nettie Rosenstein, 1953: This sparkling pink gown boasts 2,000 embroidered rhinestones, and her name was printed on the left instep of her Delman shoes, according to the Smithsonian.Bettmann/Corbis/Getty Images
Eleanor Roosevelt, Sally Milgrim, 1933 Roosevelt wore a slate-blue silk crepe gown with a gold leaf-and-flower pattern, plus belt buckle and shoulder clips made out of rhinestone and moonstone.
Eleanor Roosevelt, Sally Milgrim, 1933: Roosevelt wore a slate-blue silk crepe gown with a gold leaf-and-flower pattern, plus belt buckle and shoulder clips made out of rhinestone and moonstone. Bettmann/Corbis/Getty Images
Helen Taft, Frances Smith Company, 1909 This gown is white silk chiffon with floral embroidery and rhinestone and bead trim. She started the tradition of First Ladies selecting their inaugural dress and then donating it to the Smithsonian's First Ladies Collection.
Helen Taft, Frances Smith Company, 1909: This gown is white silk chiffon with floral embroidery and rhinestone and bead trim. She started the tradition of First Ladies selecting their inaugural dress and then donating it to the Smithsonian's First Ladies Collection.Corbis/Getty Images

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Write to Cady Lang at cady.lang@timemagazine.com