Sure, the phrase is an artful literary description that keys in (heh) nicely with the actual use and abuse of the item mentioned. Probably because Brooks knows something about Blackberrys. A bit father afield from his natural habitat, he starts to get a little lost.
BROOKS:The magic is not felt by a lot of people. It’s not felt, obviously, by a lot of less educated people, downscale people. They just look at Obama, and they don’t see anything. And so, Obama’s problem is he doesn’t seem like the kind of guy who could go into an Applebee’s salad bar, and people think he fits in naturally there.